Showing posts with label perfume. Show all posts
Showing posts with label perfume. Show all posts

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Memory, Place, and Perfume

It's Thanksgiving in the United States.  Time to travel home, or have folks travel to you.  

No, this is not going to be about the scent of pumpkin pie.

This year is a travel home one for me.  I spent a long time on the road yesterday--twice as long as it should have been, but musings on congestion, cars, and American habits I will save for another day.  By the time I started rolling through what qualifies as "home turf," Andrew Bird was singing about a tic on the left side of the head through the car speakers, and I found myself reflecting on the geography of home and the question of whether or not you can go home again started weaving through thoughts of perfume journeys.

Let's see if I can lead you through this.  It's about how we become who we are, and whether or not our descent into and through the realm of perfume follows a similar pattern.

I have long been fascinated by, and believed, the idea that geography helps shape character.  I also think that somehow, we can find pieces of our very essence in places we might not expect or have never been before.  In other words, home geography might help define us, but it doesn't have to BE part of us.  Hence, some people ride into the turf that was their childhood, and have a visceral sense of connection, place, nostalgia, longing, relief, desire.  For others, crossing through the turf of their childhood may evoke a "I'm so glad I got the hell out of Dodge" kind of response.  Some may not experience much of anything...no connection, no repulsion, just "meh." When I drive back to the terroir that incubated me, I have the first kind of response.   

Geographical nurturing  influences some of that response.  But our inner nature can be powerful, also, and I feel some of that comes into play for me.  For someone like my mother, nature trumps nurture; she finds her emotional connection in the desert southwest, even though she was born in the northern plains and raised in the northern woods.  When it comes to our geographic emotional connections, both elements are at play.

When I was making and teaching film, I discussed the idea of geography as part of a character, landscape as both mood and content cue, and indeed, geography as character itself.  Many writers and directors feel the land both defines us, and determines what choices we have for literal and figurative movement.  And land may indeed call to us.

Interesting, but where does the perfume come in to this?

Not as scent memory.   Rather, as metaphor for our olfactory journey.  The journey that is our exploration of perfume, our path through notes, combinations, and preferences.  Consider for a moment the blog writer or poster who discusses their path through perfume:  "When I started, I was into x kind of scents, but now find I am into strong x scents."  Add in a common aversion:  "that is a Grandma perfume," or "I kind of like it, but my mother wore it, so no way for me."  What prompts this movement along a scent path?  Is it entirely an evolving olfactory sophistication?  Or might some portion of the process be defined as a reaction...a movement away from the familiar, the territory of the known, of homeland, and toward exploring new lands?  Perhaps even a form of rebellion against the past, a strong statement of independence...a barbaric yawp of youth?

Will we go home again?  Can we?  Should we?  Must we?

I wonder if eventually, the curve of scent appreciation might lead some folks back home again.  In the same way that many adults who spent the first portion of their independent years forging their identities as far from their stomping grounds as possible, then find themselves back--whether for the emotional connection, or because it is the only place they can imagine their own children spending a youth, or because after exploring all the other places in the world, they find it is the one that suits them best after all.  

Some folks will never come back; the mountains were never right, and a life on or near the sea is what suits them best.

But might not some, who so strongly say "I'll never do that/go back," find that doing that/going back is exactly what they DO do?

I am spending the day in the geography of my youth.  I will not wear the scents of my grandmothers; I am still busy forging and proclaiming my own perfume identity.  But I am feeling quite connected to place.  Perhaps someday I will feel equally connected to a perfume.

I wonder... For those of us with more than a few bottles lying around, does desire to collect scent reflect a desire to chart a journey, record a path?  Is it more than simply wanting to own, but perhaps a need to keep sensory contact with memory?  Might the path of their olfactory exploration, and their choices along the way, somehow mirror their relation to their life path?  

Such were my thoughts in the dark on the two-lane.  Now, the sun is up, and it's time for me to join my family.  Elements of today will be familiar; others will be new.  One day, in a string of others before and more to come.  I plan on it all adding up to a pleasant whole.  

Have a fantastic day.   I'm off to make pumpkin pie.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

My gender, revealed

Over at GenderAnalyzer, you can have your blog prose analyzed for gender identification. I was afraid the word "perfume" might throw the balance, but:

Results
We guess http://scelfleah.blogspot.com is written by a woman (51%), however it's quite gender neutral.


Hmm...or DID the word "perfume" throw off the balance?... tee-hee.

Thanks to BitterGrace Notes ("a man, 55% neutral") for bringing this to my attention.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

To be Natural or Not to be Natural ...

...that is many a perfume lover's question.

While I have returned to this question quite a few times since I started down the perfumery path (having been an aromatherapy afficionado in my not entirely distant past), I recently found two posters who I think make lucid cases on each side of the aisle.  Nathan Branch essentially concludes that he misses the longevity synthetic fixatives can provide a scent, especially when you consider the cost:smell time equation.  Michelle Krell Kidd connects natural perfumery with terroir and the Slow Food movement, and says we should consider sticking with the real roses, however fleeting.

I've got one foot on each side at the moment.  Gardening and aromatherapy--and yes, a sympathy for the Slow Food & eat local movements--mean I am highly sympathetic to the impact of using molecules directly from their associated source.  But I am not free to burn my money, and there is a direct affect upon the budget when scents need to be reapplied frequently.  Not to mention the games you can play with evolving drydown when chemical manipulations come into play.

Hence, I am conducting my sampling in the spirit of moderation:  a little bit of everything....

Friday, September 5, 2008

My Kind of Violet (Les Nez, that is...), no--rats!--drydown happens

Hoo-ha!  My sample of Les Nez "The Unicorn Spell" arrived today.  I'm still in the midst of drydown antics, but oh my, I did enjoy that dirty (and I mean dirt here, as in earth, not skank) dark shadow opening.  It's turning into a relatively common candied violet, but so much more interesting this way.  I am entertained.

We'll have to see if I decide to move beyond the sample, but I am entertained.  And I really don't mind the idea of having a Choward violet on my wrist.

As for the Geir Ness "Leila" on my other wrist, well...let's say I have done my duty to marital fealty and sampled the Norwegian scent.  It's clean-flowery enough, but I think it is supposed to be a shower gel.  Or scent for hair gel.  

.....

Yup, it's Choward on the left, '80's hair product on the right.  Drydown happens.

......

And a couple of hours later, it's barely there, that violet, but back to having a hint of dark, and has largely dropped the candy.  The Leila is like a middle of the road Yves Rocher perfumed shower gel.


Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Event Scent vs. How I Want to Smell

I'm exploring the idea of categorizing perfumes in one of two columns:  In column A, Event Scent.  In Column B, Me Scent.

Event scents are the ones whose mere presence is an event.  They are performers.  They make you pay attention.  Not because they slap you across the face (or smother it...can you hear me, beautiful but room only for you Fracas?), but because either through their development, or the way they transport you through memory and time, you find yourself paying attention to them instead of your environment.

I mentioned SIP Black Rosette the other day as one of those perfumes.  That's one in the development category; you find yourself ignoring everything else so you can follow its development.  Then there's En Passant, on my wrist as I write, transporting me to beautiful spring, gone now, on a day when I know fall will soon be gone, too.  There's Arpege, which not only has a development event, it goads my musician self into seeing if I can identify intervals.  And there's any number of I Hate Perfume iterations, but I'll refer to Black March, because it gobsmacks me into the middle of one of my pots when I'm out with the terracota, dirt, and flats of plants on a spring day.  (I know other people get earth dirt, but I get potting soil, all the way.  Love it.)  

Opposite the Event Scent is how I want to smell.  Not simply an amplification of my own "au naturel," as it were, but a scent that extends me.  What was that line about "making me more than I am?"  There's Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve.  I could disappear into that one myself, a delicious creamy musk that is ever so slightly sweet on me.  Leather you lick.  Also from PG, Bois Blond.  That makes me feel like I'm wearing a little bit of my favorite patch of forest.  I know, not a direct association.  It's not a Christopher Brosius creepily on target re-creation.  It is an impression, and I like the way it smells, and the way it smells on me.  And then there's L'Artisan Fleur de Narcisse, which never lets you settle into thinking it's "pretty," but is a beautiful trip through a true narcissus, and hay, and what not.  Compositions, these are, in every sense of the word.

Unfortunately, this event scent/my smell duality leaves me with a few knots.  What, for example, to do with my Chanel loves?  Bois des Iles.  (Sighs.)  This is gorgeous, but I both get caught up in smelling it as wanting to smell of it.  Those aldehydes draw attention.  They're a bit showy.  They live on their own.  This means it is not a "what I want to smell like" perfume, but a "what I want you to smell on me" perfume.  There are others:  Bel Respiro.  Amarige.  (Actually, I think you could put white florals in general in this category, as far as I am concerned.)  And bridging the gap between:  Lancome Magie Noire.

Shalimar?  I love to smell it, and love to smell it on me, but I harbor no illusions that it is a part of me.  Event Scent.  Musc Samarkind?  Gently sweet, but a hint of animal that rides close to my skin and makes me double check every time I sniff.  Me Scent.  

Pondering....

Monday, August 18, 2008

Pairings: others explore

Perfume Smelling Things is back from vacation, and today's entry explores a specific cognac/perfume pairing:


Having just discussed the concept of scent & spirit pairings here On the Ledge, a few folks have weighed in with their own suggestions.  Scroll down to "First Variation: Pairings" to see their comments.  Add your own if you have thoughts on the subject!

Monday, August 11, 2008

First Variation: Pairings

I wish I knew more about both bar chef-ery and perfumery.  I'd be so much better at this post.  Nonetheless, here goes...

I have a fantasy party.  Two variations.  One revolves around pairings of scent and beverage.  The other, presentations of "flights" of scent along the lines of the increasingly popular flights of (champagne/scotch/wine/beer) available at certain establishments.  Today, variation #1.

PAIRINGS

Let's run this as a game.  I'll go first.  

I met a delightful liqueur last winter.  St. Germain.  Made from elderflowers, but I spent a number of weeks thinking of it as a violet based beverage.  Maybe because I had recently been reading about violet liqueurs (not that there are many in that realm); maybe because when I first tested Apres L'Ondee, I was reminded of when I tried St. Germain.  Now, is that because they smelled alike?  Because I was so happy-surprised when I first encountered each?  Because each made me wistful-happy?*

I don't know.  This needs research.  Party #1.

But there should be other pairings available.  I'm thinking there are certain ambers that will go well with a good scotch.  Maybe a Midori concoction to accompany Un Jardin Apres le Mousson--but I've been too afraid of losing my, erm, composure over the melon in that one to have given it a go yet.  

Black Cashmere with ... no, need something more peat-y.  Oooh, layer Black Cashmere with Black March; accompany with a shot of Jameson's?

My kids, when allowed to indulge in soda pop at a fountain, like to concoct what they call a "suicide," which is essentially a blend of everything dispensed at that fountain.  However, there are certain combinations that they say are guaranteed winners, and they particularly like root beer with orange (heavier on the root beer).  What is the spritzer to accompany that?  

I'd like to compile a list.  Beverages can be hot or cold, alcoholic or non.  Thoughts?


*BTW, St. Germain is lighter than the heavy sweet violets on one end of the perfume spectrum, and not as earthy as the other.  There is some dark sugar lurking...maybe it's a Chanel with a Guerlain uncle?

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Wii Fit / Do you trip when you walk?

The small white platform and remote are popping up in as many diverse locations of cyberspace as in the country, it seems.  WiiFit blogs abound, but it was the chatter about WiiFit on one of my favorite perfume blogs that got me to thinking:  I do believe this device is seriously here.

Well, that and the fact that we were a devoutly non-game console family...until Wii came along.  And I had no game addictions (that day long marathon of Guitar Hero aside) until my fitness age was calculated and I was asked if I tripped much when walking.

ZOIKS!  That ain't no way to treat a lady...especially one who harbors a not-so-secret admiration for Mrs. Peel and that Alias girl.  Game on!!